Big Face

I know it seems that all I talk about recently is surfing, but I've been going out almost everyday now. I went out for the past 3 days, and I'm most likely going out tomorrow and Tuesday morning as well. Today was special; Dawn and I were at El Porto at 6 am, and it was scary; big, big waves that were coming in FAST, and there's a very tough beach break there that makes it hard to paddle out on bigger days. We got out OK, and I paddled into a big, 2 foot overhead wave. It was just a big face, with a very steep drop that I took on my newer board, and I was able to carve up to the top of the wave before the lip knocked me off. I fell backwards into space, it was intense, and just dropped a ways before hitting the water below.

Afterwards, I was almost shaking with adrenaline, it was just amazing. I wouldn't have been able to do that on my longboard. A really great feeling. Afterwards, Dawn and I were surrounded by a pod of porpoises. They were swimming all round, breaching off of big waves- that means a big wave would go past, and just then 2 porpoises in tandem would fly up from the lip of the wave, enter the air, and then flip back down to enter the water noisily. This was all happening within 2-3 feet of us on our boards. Dawn actually screamed when one rose up out of the water right in front of her. It was really strange, they were rolling and cavorting for a good 10 minutes.

I managed to catch one more great ride off a wave about a foot overhead before going in, tired, salty and happy.