Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Absolute Perfection



No class to teach today, so Dawn and I went down to El Porto a little later than usual, we were in the water around 9 am-- and it was gorgeous. Sunny, nice, clean, chest high waves rolling in long lines, a little unusual for El Porto. It felt like San Onofre in the summer. I was wearing my super warm 4-3 wetsuit, but I didn't really need it, we both caught sooo many waves we were well worn out at the end of the 3 hour session. I'd catch a big wave, and ride it, ride it, ride it, going left, then right, then left again, allll the way to the beach, over and over, just fantastic. I reeeaaaalllllyy needed that.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home