A day at Rincon

My friend Walker and I went up to Rincon yesterday, just southeast of Santa Barbera on the 101, for a very intense west swell that was peaking. Rincon is considered one of the best breaks in California, a truly world-class wave when the conditions were right, and man, they were right yesterday.

As it was a Sunday morning, it was crowded, but not as crowded as I thought it would be. The waves were easily over my head, and came through with a speedy regularity which kept everyone on their toes. I was a bit standoffish at first, it being my first time at a very serious surf spot, with many locals and experienced surfers flying down the faces all around me. After about an hour, hour and a half, I caught my first wave- and was amazed at the inherent power moving through it. I could feel it from my head to my toes, and it really took me by surprise. As I did my best carving on the face, the wave opened up and continued down the line, and I went with it, my brain just in awe at the perfection of its shape.

I managed to catch just one more after that one, but it was enough; I was fairly spent after surfing the day before in heavy waves north of El Porto. I was sooo glad to have managed to catch some fantastic rides at such a famous place.